A beautiful Georgian residence, circa 1901, in need of wooden gutter maintenance. Filthy paint on the gutter tells of repeated overflows (at a low spot)

Before I discovered the brushable liquid rubber I used fibered roofing tar with a fiberglass mesh embedded (to prevent cracking) as a liner. The key to any lining is complete coverage!

Plugging the leaders reveals the lowest spot when the gutter fills. This gutter had been plugged for years and here where it spills over causing porch rot and building settling below.

Although this paint cleaned up well, much of it was loose enough that removing it and starting fresh was the right thing to do. Beautiful old growth wood (southern swamp cypress) that is extremely rot resistant.

Too bad all gutters don't have a drip at the top so when they do overflow the water does not run down the cornice causing paint problems and unsightly filth that needs periodic cleaning - so I improvised and added one!

And here it is in action, deflecting water away from the building. During a rain the exterior on the gutter, bed molding, and fascia on the front of this building stay completely dry, unlike the other sides :(

I added a 1 1/4" x 1" piece of PT wood to the top of the gutter and set the drip edge in adhesive caulk on top of that. Wow, the new paint really makes this cornice standout.

The drip works great and from the ground its not noticable! Luckly a leader is positioned at this low point. You can see easily see the cornice "sag" in this view. These 75º elbows do plug up and need periodic checking.

The old gutter rotted because the front of the porch settled. This caused the leaders to at be the highest point at the back of the side sections. Lifting the front of the porch solved this problem.

Applying a few coats of Geocel's clear liquid rubber effectively lines this gutter giving it a maintenance free long life. I also slipped this metal drip edge up under the rubber and its termination bar so roof runoff would drip directly into the gutter. Without it, rain water incessantly runs down over the joint along the back of the gutter which is the area that was badly rotted. I covered the shiny aluminum rubber termination bar with black rubber as it detracts from the historic nature of the building.

I like to thoroughly apply paint with a roller then brush it out. Since I'm on stagging I can walk from end to end freely. No ladders for me to move and move and move again.

These column bases rotted because the front of the porch settled over the years causing the wood gutter to overflow. This overflow splashed the outside coloumn bases with copious amounts of water every time it rained. Jacking up the porch leveled the gutters so they functioned properly. I used glued up air dried pressure treated stock for this repair which will not rot incase the porch continues to settle over time.

I glued up defect free, air dried, pressure treated stock and routed out its replacement.

This coulmn is solid wood and weighs a ton. The bottom was wet and and ants had honeycombed a good foot up. Luckily they stayed near the center. I'll pulled out all the holey wood and dried out the cavity with a paint removal heat gun before attaching the base in bed of tri-polymer sealant. The 5/4" T&G fir porch boards under this column had rotted as well due to constant spalashing from overflowing gutters. So I milled new from 5/4" PT to replace them.

The same overflowing gutters caused the fir stair treads to rot as well. Glued up PT with returns will solve any future rot problems.

PT does crack and split went allowed to expand and contract from wetting and drying cycles. So proper paint adhesion is a must. Belt sanding opens the pores of the wood that will soak up the paint!

Prefinished and installed that day. Fasteners were stainless steel screws in predrilled holes.

New framing allowed me to eliminate the stupid step that was created when someone poured the 1st concrete step.